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"Chance encounters are what keep us going." -Murakami

Wednesday, September 30, 2009

Imilchil Wedding Festival



So we rode into the Wedding Festival, tent and poles in tow, hoping to get a good spot. We were riding in the cab of a dumptruck, with a group of locals that we knew from another PCV. Along in our dump-truck were some other people riding in the back, and two steers and a calf. It was a slow ride up winding hills as the cameo was full, so the ride took longer than if we were in a transit van.

When we arrived, the general picture we saw was the above shot. A multitude of trucks, tents, animals and people. It was a super windy day, and due to the lack of trees or other flora, there was a pseudo-duststorm. It was nasty, and I was earning to get into a tent away from the blowing dust that was caking my face, eyes, hair, and teeth (yes! you can feel the layer of grit on your teeth).

The cameo parked, and my fellow PCV Liz went to go and find out where we were going to be stationed. I agreed to stay with the bulky stuff, as it was pointless to carry it anywhere. As I stood there, the guys with the cameo truck began to unload their cargo... the steers and calf. They had tied ropes onto the horns of the steers, one proper on the horns, the other around the nose area. They were tugging on the ropes trying to get the steers to get out of the trucks. They were stubborn, and wanted nothing to do with it. I was standing there, so I decided to help pull.

We finally got the first steer out. I help onto the rope, in order to keep it there and not run off. The steer was bulky, naturally, because they had fattened him up in order to sell him at the souq. He also was difficult. There were two of us to the steer, me on one rope, and another guy on the other. We were pulling in opposite directions, so the steer could not budge. But, the stubborn, husky steer resisted, and yanked and pulled us around. Another guy had a stick to hit the steer, but it was just like a fly, and barely phased the steer. He continued to wait for an opportune moment, trying to get free. He lowered his head and tried to get his horns into me (they were small horns) in order to get me to the ground and stamp on me. He also tried to lever his body into mine. My reaction was to do the same, which seems funny because I was certainly no match for the steer's immense size. This steer was difficult, but I knew if I let go the steer would go crazy.

After a few minutes of this, while the calf and the steer were being unloaded, I finally was relieved of my duty. I watched as they led the group of cows to the area they needed to go. From afar, I saw the difficult steer pulling two of the guys. I found this humorous, yet obviously a steer in a crowd is dangerous. As far as I know, all ended well.

That was just the introduction to the Imilchil Wedding Festival. The festival is due to a story. Basically, a very Romeo and Juliet story. A man and women fall in love, but are from rival tribes. They are forbidden from each other, and wept. Their tears created two lakes (Tislit and Isli), which means bride and groom. They then committed suicide in the lakes via drowning, and the tribes became friends, allowing marriage. That is the concise version (Go here to see the story)

So the festival exists for two reasons. One is so that to-be brides can choose their groom. Usually the brides are widows or divorcees, but there are also young women as well. They walk around the souq, covered completely except for their eyes. They wear the traditional colors, so they stand out. They walk around the souq and talk to people, or just eye people. The other reason for the festival in the fall, is that traditionally, winter here is hard, and it is difficult to get out. So the souq provides a way to stock up for the winter on all the good you need. Now, this part of Morocco is not as isolated as it was as little as 5 years ago, so it is no longer as full as it used to be. Regardless, it was still packed!

The point of my going to the festival was two-sided. Naturally, this is one of the most well known festivals in Morocco, and one of the largest and most traditional. I live close, so I really wanted to go and see it. In addition, some other volunteers in the area and I decided to have an informational tent about the nearby Eastern High Atlas National Park. Working with our counterparts from the Department of Water and Forests, we had a tent with informational panels and pamphlets about the EHANP, and the natural environment. We talked to local people at the festival about various environmental concerns in the area, including deforestation.

The festival was three days, and in the evenings, there were concerts in nearby Imilchil. The weather was chilly and rainy for the last two days, but that really did not put a damper on things.

As for the souq itself, it was huge (see picture). There were all sorts of fruits and vegetables, along with other random goods. In addition, there were used clothes tents and artisanal products like rugs and scarves. There were butchers to buy all kinds of chicken, sheep, goat, turkey, and beef. You could then take the meat to a griller who would cook your food, and you could eat super fresh meat!

There were also animal vendors, where you could buy various farm animals. Animals included were cattle, sheep, goats, mules, donkeys, horses, AND... CAMELS! I have never seen so many camels, and so I snapped a number of pictures.



During the souq, I happened to talk to a number of people. One of the groups I talked to were a group of want to-be brides. I was standing with another female PCV, and she was talking to them. I said hello, and they asked the women if I was her husband. She said no, and I jumped in and said that I was not married. This was followed by one of the women (I say women, but they were more than likely under 18) asking me to marry her. I had no idea what to say, so I went into my normal routine of saying that I was still too young, etc. This always gets a laugh, as I am 27, and of prime marrying age here in Morocco. Luckily for me, Men should be established with job and income, something I do not have. But this would probably be overlooked due to the fact I am American. Even still, it was really humorous.

I also bought my first touristy item, a small half wool/half cotton carpet made by artisans. The origin of the carpet is from near Meknes. It is nice and red, with very nice traditional patterns. What I love about living here is the fact I can ask where something is made, and know where it is located. I also have learned much about carpets here, and it is quite fascinating.

Overall, the Wedding fest was a great experience. If you want to see more pictures, become friends with me on facebook, or shoot me an email and i can send you the links for the pictures. I hope to be posting more in the future, and hope to be posting more controversial topics (about environment etc.). I am reading books at the moment which relate to this topic, and I wish to discuss them with you all!

Much Love, and email to say hello or come visit!
Eric

Book of the Time: Guns, Germs, and Steel - Jarod Diamond
Album of the Time: Kings of Convenience - Declaration of Dependence

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